Nikko's famous Toshogu shrine is a place of time-honored traditions: you will see local devotees write wooden prayers and the "hear none, speak none, see none-monkeys" demonstrating their aversion to evil.
Here you will find truly national treasures: the numerous buildings of the Toshogu Shrine feature a lavish opulence that is found nowhere else in Japan.
Rinnoji belongs to the Tendai sect of Buddhism. The main hall, called the Sanbutsudo, with its almost erotic color scheme of black and green and vermilion, dates to 1648 and is the largest single building at Toshogu. Inside are there huge gold lacquered statues, representing three different manifestations of the Buddha. In the center is Amida Nyorai, the Buddha who leads believers to Paradise; on the right is Senju (“Thousand-Armed”) Kannon , the goddess of mercy: on the left is Bato-Kannon, depicted with a horse’s head on its forehead, regarded as the protector of animals. North of the main hall is the Goho-tendo, a subtemple where worshippers inscribe their prayers for health and prosperity on slats of wood that are later burned to carry the prayers to heaven. To the south is the residence of the Abbot- by tradition an imperial prince-with a particularly fine garden in the style of the Edo period.
Leaving Rinnoji from the west side, you come to the broad Omotesando avenue that leads uphill to the shrine itself. Note the monument to the daimyo Matsudaira Masatane, Ieyasu’s trusted retainer. Matsudaira spent some 20 years planting the majestic cryptomeria cedars on the grounds of the shrine and along the 64-km (40-mile) avenue of approach. Alas, much of the avenue has been destroyed: a few sections of it survive on the road east of town, where many of the 13,000 trees still standing are maintained by corporate sponsors.
At the top of on the left of the Omote-sando is a five-story high pagoda, decorated with the twelve signs of the Asian zodiac and the hollyhock crest which belongs to the Tokugawa family.
From here you will find a flight of stone steps that leads to the first gate of Toshogu: known as the Omotemon, which is guarded by two fierce-looking Deva kings painted in red.
In the first courtyard is the stable, which houses the shrine’s sacred white horse; the carved panel above the door is the famous group of three monkeys-“Hear no evil, see no evil, speak no evil!”- that has become a symbol of Nikko, the logo on virtually every souvenir. At the far end of the courtyard is the Kyozo (Sutra Library), which houses some 7000 Buddhist scriptures in a huge revolving bookcase.
As you approach a second set of stone steps, you see on the right a belfry and a tall bronze candelabrum; on the left is a drum tower and a bronze revolving lantern. The two bronzes were presented in the mid -17th century by the Dutch government, in gratitude for the special exemption that gave them exclusive trading privileges with Japan during the period of national seclusion. Off to the left is the Yakushi-do a temple honoring the manifestation of the Buddha as healer of illnesses.
At the top of the steps is the two-story Yomeimon, the “Gate of Sunlight”- the triumphal masterpiece of Toshogu, rightly declared a Nation Treasure. This is the ultimate expression of the opulent Momoyama style inspired by Chinese Ming sculpture and architecture. Ivory-white and 11.3 m (37 ft) high, its columns beams, and cornices are carved with a menagerie of dragons, phoenixes, lions, and tigers in a field of clouds, peonies, Chinese sages, and angels, all gilded and painted in red, gold, blue, and green. To the right and left of the gate there are paneled galleries, also carved and painted with a motifs from nature: pine and plum trees, birds of the field, and waterfowl.
Inside the gate to the left is the Mikoshi-gura, a storeroom for the portable shrines that grace the semi-annual Toshogu Festival processions (18 May and 17 October). To the right is the Kaguraden, a hall where ceremonial dances are performed to honor the gods-and where for a modest fee, couples can have Shinto wedding ceremonies performed, complete with flutes and drums and shrine maidens to attend them.
Opposite the yomeimon, across the courtyard, is the Karamon (“Chinese gate”), the official entrance to the inner shrine. This structure, like Yomeimon, is also National Treasure and just as ornately carved and painted. The walls on both sides of this gate enclose the handed (main hall) of the shrine. The entrance is to the right. Here you remove your shoes (lockers are provided) to visit the outer part of the hall, called the haiden (oratory).You may not proceed further than this, for at the far end of the oratory are the naijin (inner chamber) and nai-naijin (innermost chamber), where the spirit of leyasu is enshrined. With him are two other worthy companions: Toyotomi Hideyoshi, Leyasu’s mentor, and great 12th century warrior Minamoto no Yoritomo, who founded the Kamakurs shogunate- whom leyasu claimed as an ancestor.
The tour next takes you to another Toshogu icon: the famous Gate of the Sleeping Cat. The cat itself, on a small panel above the entrance, is said to have been sculpted by Hidari Jigoro, a legendary master carver of the Tokugawa period. From here a flight of 207 stone steps takes you up through a wokderful forest of cedars to Leyasu Togugawa’s tomb. The climb is worth making, if only for the view the trees, and a cool, rushing steam. The tomb itself, a miniature bronze pagoda that house the great shogun’s ashes, is nothing special.
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Nikko's famous Toshogu shrine is a place of time-honored traditions: you will see local devotees write wooden prayers and the "hear none, speak none, see none-monkeys" demonstrating their aversion to evil.
Here you will find truly national treasures: the numerous buildings of the Toshogu Shrine feature a lavish opulence that is found nowhere else in Japan.
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Do you know of anything else about the enviroment that makes you happy to come to Nikkō Tōshō-gū? If it's a city or neighbourhood are there any climatic, or microclimatic features that you could tell others about. If the location is a building or place, then can you describe it maybe as "sun-lit", or "cold in the mornings". We'd love you to contribute - why not let us know in the drop box below
Graphic showing average weather in Nikkō Tōshō-gū in Celcius and Centimeters (Change to Farenheit and Inches)
Month | Temp °C | Rainfall Cm | Temp °F | Rainfall Inches |
---|---|---|---|---|
Jan | 2 | 43.7 | 35.6 | 17.2 |
Feb | 2.5 | 68.8 | 36.5 | 27.1 |
Mar | 5.6 | 96.5 | 42.1 | 38 |
Apr | 11.3 | 133.8 | 52.3 | 52.7 |
May | 16 | 164.9 | 60.8 | 64.9 |
Jun | 20 | 196.8 | 68 | 77.5 |
Jul | 24.3 | 261.3 | 75.7 | 102.9 |
Aug | 25.2 | 309.9 | 77.4 | 122 |
Sep | 21.6 | 297.4 | 70.9 | 117.1 |
Oct | 15.4 | 175.8 | 59.7 | 69.2 |
Nov | 9.9 | 78 | 49.8 | 30.7 |
Dec | 4.5 | 47.2 | 40.1 | 18.6 |
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