‘Small is beautiful’. It’s a well-worn cliché, but one that could have been written for Ecuador, which is fast becoming an utterly unmissable stop on any South American tour. It’s the diversity of this undersized haven that draws the crowds: there are mountains and jungles, modern cities and almost-untouched villages, glacier-covered volcanoes and an island that changed the course of natural history forever. Best of all, with everything so close together (the Galapagos aside, at least), you probably won't have to pick between them.

Colonial old-town Quito nestles between soaring volcanic peaks, and has the street-side feel a city that knows what it's about, and is proud of its progress. Recent renovations mean this world heritage site sparkles, both people and places bright with upbeat colors. Striking Cuenca hosts whitewashed houses galore, spread around impressive open plazas that host fashionable restaurants. It’s all very mellow, with a taste of the past dangling in the air.

For a frantic adventure, white water rafting in Tena – down a choice of two hefty rivers and countless rapids – takes you into the heart of the Amazon Basin, and can be combined with an exploration of the local indigenous communities. The Quilotoa Loop is an Andean odyssey, taking in mountain passes and stupendous views, while the Parque Nacional Machalilla is the place to go and spy whales flopping across the water. At the top of the imposing Volcan Chimborazo you’ll be as close to the sun as anyone on earth.

Ecuador’s most famous site, of course, lies off the coast. The Galapagos Islands outstanding abundance of wildlife prompted Darwin to change human thought forever, and the islands still draw endless queues of tourists photographing lizards lounging in the sun, or posing with colossal lumbering turtles. Cruises from the mainland are a common (yet pricey) option; be aware of the environmental problems increasing numbers of visitors bring.

It’s difficult to choose between the ample attractions Ecuador offers up, so much so that plenty of South American travelers turn up here and never get around to leaving. If you’re on a time threshold though, you’ll find the proximity of varied sites in this thrilling and compact nation a major draw.